Weaving in India

Weaving in India was traditionally considered to be a sacred activity. Weaving signifies the coming together of yarn, similar to the coming together of people and societies, bound by the warp and weft of social interactions. Every community in India has their own origin stories of weaving and its emergence, many of them surrounding divine and demi-divine figures like rishis (saints) and sanyasis (ascetics). The loom has been a metaphor in Kabir’s Bhakti poetry, a poet-saint from the 14th century. In one of this poem-songs, he narrates: 

“I weave your name on the loom of my mind,

To make my garment when you come to me.

My loom has ten thousand threads

To make my garment when you come to me.”

The meditative act of weaving is, thus, related to a sense of devotion one feels for spiritual practices like worship. In addition, handwoven clothes have been historically used for sacred purposes and were attached to ritualistic usage. 

Indian Ikat

Ikat occupies a similar position in the history of Indian textiles. In India, Ikat is a thriving textile tradition found in Odisha, Gujarat, Kerala and Telengana; its complex weaving technique has earned the fascination of people across ages. Ikat patterns are developed through resist dyeing method. Unlike other resist dyeing methods such as Bandhini and Batik, the patterns of Ikat are formed in the dyed yarn rather than on the surface of the fabric through weaving, which is proof of the exceptional skill and knowledge required to create these textiles. 

The dyeing process has to be carried out multiple times in different colours in order to get the desired combination of colours and design. The yarn, once ready, is fastened on the loom and woven to create the characteristic Ikat motifs that have an appearance unlike other woven motifs - Ikat designs have to be laid out in a pattern that matches the dyed yarn, and the motifs created have a dreamy, blurred quality to them. It goes without saying that it takes several days to months to create a piece of Ikat textile. Can you imagine the time, skill and artistic finesse required to create a piece of double ikat? 

The birth of CCD-NL

It is this fascinating history of Ikat, especially with reference to the Indonesian Ikat weaving technique, that inspired CCD-NL to dedicate a lot of its work to the development and sustenance of this tradition. The organisation’s story is rooted in a rich tapestry of experiences, projects, and initiatives to preserve Ikat, shaping its journey and vision for the coming future. It all began in 2010 when the exploration of Ikat became a focal point for revitalizing intangible cultural heritage at Leiden University's International Institute for Asian Studies (IIAS). Over the course of seven years, a series of activities and projects unfolded in the East Nusa Tenggara region of Indonesia and in The Netherlands, laying the foundation for CCD-NL's establishment in 2017.

CCD-NL is driven by motive of utilising culture and creativity for sustainable progress. That culture has the transformative potential to drive positive change and create a more inclusive and resilient society is undeniable. CCD-NL aims to foster cross-cultural understanding and building bridges of harmony through transformative experiences. The journey so far since 2017 has been an exciting merge of exploration, discovery, and empowerment. 

The Ikat journey

CCD-NL is tied intrinsically with Ikat, where Ikat was chosen as its pilot project for more than 5 years since its inception. In May 2019, the CCD-NL launched a project called ‘Binding with Ikat: Binding with past and present for future’ followed by a residency of Dutch designer Lio de Bruin in a weaving community in Belu, NTT (East Nusa Tenggara) supported by Erasmus Huis, the Dutch embassy in Indonesia and Stimuleringfonds (voucher). Due to the Covid-19 outbreak, the focus and the theme of the Platform changed to ‘Binding with Ikat: Binding Cultures in Times of Crisis’ (#ccdnlIkatPlatform), officially launched on July 2nd, 2021 (with the support of Rotterdam municipality). This platform has been successfully implemented and today, there are three weaving Ikat groups in NTT and Dutch designers joining the Platform. The project played as a successful gateway to link artisans across continents to share ideas and experiences. 

Another initiative called the “Lab for IKAT” will soon be launched, becoming the perfect outlet for the municipality's plan to engage young designers and encourage new ideas, as a tailor-made program for designers in Rotterdam. CCD-NL will continue and expand its work with the Wasserij, Nikkie wester, and the designer Gianni Antonya who previously worked with CCD-NL in some capacity. 

Future of Ikat and CCD-NL

For building the scope of an exciting future with CCD-NL’s continuing initiatives around Ikat, the “Lab for Ikat” project with be especially relevant. The focus on promoting this endangered cultural heritage will be accomplished through the sustainable use of natural and environmentally friendly artificial dyes. The project will also experiment and adapt old techniques to fit an eco-friendly industry. The lab will test the use of natural sustainable essential oils (such as orange, lemon, and cinnamon) into the yarn and dye procedures for Ikat production. This will not only take advantage of the oils’ health benefits but also create access to new markets and pique consumer interest. This project will also support a campaign to encourage consumers to support local and national brands, based on new trends which emerged during the Covid-19 pandemic. 

Here’s hoping for a scintillating future in identifying, developing and working on diverse, interesting and significant aspects of this brilliant textile traditions whose influence ranges from Indonesia to India. Whether in the past or in the present times, Ikat continues to charm both textile enthusiasts and buyers alike. And our effort will be towards involving more and more stakeholders to work with this ancient tradition, preserve its techniques, and bring sufficient exposure to the artisans who continue to strive for its preservation. We could not be more excited!