Takeaways from the journey to Kupang - Indonesia
In April 2023, CCD-NL was once again able to visit Indonesia to delve into the world of ikat, but this time in the city of Kupang in East Nusa Tenggara Province. One of CCD-NL’s advisors, Julita Oetojo, undertook this educational expedition as a researcher specializing in ikat weaving in eastern Indonesia. This was an opportunity for her to do research, explore the city, and see magnificent collections of ikat and motifs. Regarding her overall experience, this trip allowed Julita to interact with ikat artisans and get a better understanding of the ikat weaving tradition in the area. She was able to look into how CCD-NL can help conserve the precious heritage of ikat weaving and raise awareness about it to increase community income. Moreover, while in Kupang, she continued the previous year’s CCD-NL training program with the help of the local administration of Kupang, notably Dekranasda (The Regional National Craft Council).
Ikat - Indonesian cultural heritage
Regarding the importance of cultural heritage in Indonesia, Julita talked about how the traditions and cultural diversity in Indonesia stand for the society's identity and knowledge and the way they encourage younger generations to respect and learn from the older generations. While ikat weaving shares many similarities with traditional weaving techniques from other countries, such as the basic technique of tying threads to create patterns or designs, common patterns and motifs, cultural symbols, natural materials and dyes, and cultural and ritual roles, it holds a unique place in the weaving community. For Julita, the significance of ikat stems from its originality, cultural and historical meaning, aesthetic appeal, and emotional and spiritual connection. In other words, aside from its economic value, each piece of ikat has cultural, spiritual, and social importance since it provides livelihoods and cultural variation for Indonesians, assisting in the preservation of social and economic traditions.
During the interview, Julita highlighted how dedicated Indonesian ikat artisans are to their work which shows that they care a lot about their cultural history and beliefs. In Julita’s words: “The artisans put their hearts into their work, share stories and traditions, respect their community, keep their history alive, take pride in their detailed work, and meet the needs of customers all over the world”. When asked about the difficulties that Indonesian ikat artisans face, Julita stated that, while it depends on the region, craft, and socioeconomic factors, they usually struggle with limited resources, market exposure, adapting to the modern industry and the lack of interest by the younger generation regarding ikat. For instance, the modern textile industry had a huge negative impact on Indonesian artisans due to its low prices and quick production times. According to Julita, this unfair competition with the modern industry can lead to a cultural loss and income problems within the ikat community. During her stay, she also realized that the training program CCD-NL provides is crucial for the cultural preservation in Indonesia because of these types of difficulties that artisans face. To solve these issues, the artisans need to ensure the long-term viability of their work by gaining access to markets, receiving financial and marketing support, improving their skills, and networking. Most importantly, the goal for the artisans is to teach them how to be independent and run their own business. These kinds of support mechanisms that CCD-NL strives to achieve for the artisans can help them sustain their livelihoods by promoting cultural heritage, protecting their rights, and empowering them to succeed in a rapidly changing world.
Education and training
Another interesting point Julita made about Indonesian artisans is that women often stay in rural areas with little access to formal education and training. While formal education might seem irrelevant as these women work in artistic fields, it can allow them to become more independent by helping them understand market trends and manage their own business. For Julita, the working conditions of Indonesian women can be improved by providing them with opportunities to access financial resources and essential assets, along with adopting a collaborative approach that involves community-driven initiatives like showcasing their work in exhibitions, utilizing e-commerce platforms, and establishing partnerships with designers. This topic of discussion has led to asking whether the manufacturing process of ikat is ethical, in terms of labor conditions, supply chain transparency, its environmental impact and sustainability. According to Julita, the ethical aspect of the process is a work in progress. Things such as fair work conditions, clear supply chain, environmental effects, sustainability, local community empowerment, and education are all in need of improvement. For instance, the recent use of synthetic colors in ikat weaving might have harmful effects on the environment and should be discouraged. Another example Julita gave is that education and training still need to be improved since not all weavers have undergone training. Regarding the artisans who have received training, it is necessary to observe them to determine how efficient their training is and what kind of impact it has so that the program runs smoothly. It is important for CCD-NL to encourage ethical practices in the ikat community as they would improve education, foster sustainability, empower the local community, resulting in beneficial outcomes for the planet and the Indonesian artisans.
CCD-NL's contribution
Regarding the ways in which CCD-NL can contribute to the preservation of Indonesian heritage and the support of local artists, Julita mentioned that the organization could extend support for cultural preservation and skill development programs through cooperation and funding from organisations in the Netherlands. This would include offering training to artisans in ikat weaving techniques, design methods, business management, and marketing. Additionally, CCD-NL aims to assist in the global promotion and marketing of ikat through various international platforms. Moreover, CCD-NL can facilitate collaboration with designers and experts, raise public awareness about the importance of cultural heritage preservation, fund research activities related to the history, culture, and techniques of ikat weaving, collaborate with local institutions, and assist in identifying and developing new markets for ikat weaving products. Therefore, CCD-NL would be able to empower local artisans by helping them grow and adapt to the changing times and global markets which is crucial for the preservation of Indonesia's cultural heritage and traditional ikat weaving practices.
Overall, the journey to Kupang allowed Julita to meet and interact with many ikat artisans, explore their craft and passion, and learn about their current struggles. One thing is for sure, this expedition will assist CCD-NL to come up with new strategies to help preserve the ikat weaving heritage in Indonesia.