Thuni: The Fabrics of India
Welcome to a new blog series where I take you on a deep dive into the vibrant world of Indian textiles. In this first blog post, we will take a look at the mind-boggling variety of traditional Indian fabrics and attempt to lay out a framework. The title of the blog series Thuni, is a word borrowed from Malayalam, the language spoken in the South Indian state of Kerala. It means “cloth".
Physical evidence suggests that Indian textiles date back to the Harappan Civilization but textual evidence points to their existence even earlier. From the fourteenth century onwards, these textiles played an essential role in global trade, renowned for their elegance and quality. They were often considered the epitome of luxury and high status. According to Riello and Roy, “In the late-eighteenth century, South Asia accounted for approximately a quarter of the world’s textile output and almost certainly a larger percentage of the world’s seaborne trade in textiles. India clothed the world” (Riello and Roy, 6).
Fabrics
India boasts many fabrics, primarily cotton, wool, jute, and silk. Indian cotton is legendary in terms of its demand and quality. Today, India is the second largest producer of cotton in the world. The strong but soft breathable fabric is a versatile raw material for the production of clothes, furniture, and household items. Cotton production predominantly thrives in the western, southern, and central parts of India with the states of Gujarat and Maharashtra leading the charge. Wool from India is primarily used in the manufacturing of rugs and carpets. It is produced in the states of Rajasthan, Telangana, Karnataka, Gujarat, and Himachal Pradesh. Jute, a sturdy and eco-friendly fibre derived from the Corchorus olitorius plant, is prized for its durability and versatility, especially in creating biodegradable packaging. The Indian jute industry is centred around West Bengal and is the largest supplier of jute in the world. India produces a breathtaking variety of silks, some of the most popular ones are Benarasi silk, Tussar silk, Kanchipuram silk, and Mulberry silk. The production is mainly centred around Tamil Nadu, West Bengal, Andhra Pradesh, Jammu and Kasmir, and Karnataka. In India, silk is often associated with luxury and royalty and is the material of choice for occasions like weddings and festivals.
Techniques
India's reputation extends beyond its fabric diversity, as it is renowned worldwide for its intricate craftsmanship and exquisite embellishment techniques. According to the classification system borrowed from the textbook of Traditional Indian Textiles compiled by the Central Board of Secondary Education and the National Institute of Fashion Technology, the techniques can be broadly classified into embroidery, resist dyeing, printing, and hand weaving. The Ikat textiles which are the primary focus of CCD-NL come under the resist dyeing classification. The various examples of each of these techniques will be discussed in detail in upcoming blog posts.
Colours
India has an extensive tradition of vibrant and long-lasting natural dyes made from plants and animals. Indigo is perhaps the most famous among them, steeped in historical and political significance. Made from the Indigo tintora plant, the signature deep blue is in high demand, from its ancient origins to the modern world, it has never gone out of style. Turmeric, madder, pomegranate, marigold, lac, and saffron were also used to produce the vibrant colours of Indian textiles. However, the art of natural dyeing, cherished for its longevity, is gradually yielding to the quicker allure of synthetic dyes, a trend observed not only in India but worldwide.
In conclusion, this introductory post merely scratches the surface of the intricate world of Indian fabrics. In the forthcoming articles, I dive deep into the individual products and explore the techniques employed in their creation. In the next post, we delve into the world of Kalamkari fabrics, a unique and time-honoured tradition of India. Stay tuned!