Voices of Ikat: How Artisans Preserve 

and Promote Their Craft

Written by Jasleen Kaur, 29th March 2024
Ikat production. (World Ikat Textiles Symposium 2019/-). Photo from The Jakarta Post.

Ikat, a time-honoured textile method, entails dyeing yarns with resist techniques prior to their integration into woven fabrics. Originating from the Malay-Indonesian term meaning 'to bind', the term 'ikat' reflects the practice of tying and wrapping yarns to form patterns. Renowned for their unique blurred edges and vivid hues, ikat fabrics derive their distinct appearance from the subtle misalignment of dyed yarns in the weaving process.


But what does ikat mean to the people who make it? How do they feel about their craft, their culture, and their future? In this blog, we will hear from some of the ikat artisans who are part of the World Fair Trade Organization (WFTO), a global community and verifier of enterprises that fully practice Fair Trade. WFTO members are SMEs, farmers or retailers that follow the 10 Principles of Fair Trade, covering working conditions, transparency, wages, the environment, gender equity and more. WFTO also partners with the Ethical Fashion Initiative (EFI), a project of the International Trade Centre, which connects discerning international brands in fashion, interiors, and fine foods with talented local designers, artisans, and micro-producers.


These ikat artisans will share their stories, challenges, and aspirations, and how being part of the WFTO and EFI networks has helped them to grow their businesses and impact their communities. Let's listen to their voices and learn more about their craft.

Arturo Estrada Hernandez, Mexico

Artisan Arturo Estrada Hernandez during a session “All Around the World – Ikat Traditions from Far and Near” at the World Ikat Textiles Symposium 2019 (WITS) in Jakarta. Photo from Independent Observer

Arturo Estrada Hernandez is an ikat artisan from Mexico, who revived the traditional ikat rebozo, a long scarf worn by women. He learned the technique from his grandfather, who was also a master weaver. Arturo uses natural cotton and dyes and works with a team of 15 artisans, mostly women, who help him with the dyeing, weaving, and finishing of the rebozos.


Arturo says that ikat is a way of life for him and that he feels proud to continue his family legacy and to share his culture with the world. He also says that being part of the WFTO has given him access to new markets and opportunities, as well as a sense of belonging to a global community of like-minded entrepreneurs.


"Ikat is not only a technique, it is a philosophy, a way of seeing life. It is a way of respecting nature, of using what it gives us without harming it. It is a way of honouring our ancestors, who taught us this craft and passed it on to us. It is a way of expressing our identity, our values, our dreams. Ikat is my passion, my joy, my life."

Gunjan Jain, India

Jain displaying her designs at the Sarees of India exhibition in Delhi. Photo from The Voice of Fashion

"Ikat is a magical and mysterious technique, that creates beautiful patterns and colours on fabric. It is a challenge and a delight to work with ikat, as it involves a lot of planning, calculation, and experimentation. It is also a privilege and a responsibility to work with ikat artisans, who are the custodians of this ancient and precious craft. They are not only skilled and talented, but also resilient and resourceful. They have faced many difficulties and threats, such as competition from cheap and mass-produced fabrics, loss of markets and customers, lack of recognition and support, and so on. But they have also found ways to overcome them, by adapting, innovating, and collaborating. They have also benefited from being part of the Fair Trade movement, which has given them fair prices, stable orders, quality standards, capacity building, social security, and more. They have also gained confidence, dignity, and empowerment, as they have seen their work being appreciated and valued by customers around the world."




Gunjan Jain is a textile designer and researcher from India, who works with ikat artisans from different regions of the country. She helps them to create new designs and products that appeal to the contemporary market while preserving the traditional techniques and motifs of ikat. She also documents and promotes the rich heritage and diversity of ikat in India, through exhibitions, publications, and workshops.


Gunjan says that ikat is a fascinating and complex art form, that requires a lot of skill, patience, and creativity. She also says that working with ikat artisans has been a rewarding and inspiring experience, as she has learned a lot from them and has seen the positive impact of Fair Trade on their lives and communities.

Natalya Musina, Uzbekistan





Natalya Musina is an ikat artisan from Uzbekistan, who works with IkatUz, a social enterprise that produces and sells ikat fabrics and products. She is one of the 120 artisans, mostly women, who are employed by IkatUz, which is a member of the WFTO and a partner of the EFI. Natalya is involved in the dyeing process of ikat, which uses natural and eco-friendly dyes, such as indigo, madder, walnut, and pomegranate.


Natalya says that ikat is a part of her culture and history and that she feels happy and proud to work with it. She also says that working with IkatUz has improved her living conditions and prospects, as she has received a fair wage, social benefits, training, and recognition for her work. She also says that being part of the WFTO and EFI networks has opened new doors and possibilities for her and her colleagues, as they have been able to access new markets and customers and participate in international events and projects.

"Ikat is a treasure of our country, our people, our ancestors. It is a symbol of our identity, our beauty, our wisdom. It is a joy and an honour to work with ikat and to create something unique and valuable with our hands. It is also a blessing and an opportunity to work with IkatUz, which has given us a chance to improve our lives and our futures. We have not only earned a decent income, but also learned new skills, made new friends, and gained new experiences. We have also been able to connect with other Fair Trade enterprises and customers around the world, who have shown interest and appreciation for our work. We have also been able to showcase our work at international platforms, such as the Ethical Fashion Show in Berlin, the World Ikat Textiles Symposium in Jakarta, and the International Folk Art Market in Santa Fe. We have also been able to collaborate with other designers and artisans, such as Arturo Estrada Hernandez from Mexico, who visited us and taught us his ikat technique. We have also been able to contribute to the preservation and promotion of our craft, by sharing our knowledge and stories with others."

Sources: Alesouk. The Fascinating Journey of Ikat in Central Asia: Weaving Through History.  Accessed on the 29th of March, 2024. Available at: https://alesouk.com/the-fascinating-journey-of-ikat-in-central-asia-weaving-through-history/
Ethical Fashion Initiative. About. Accessed on the 29th of March, 2024. Available at: https://ethicalfashioninitiative.org/about
Ethical Fashion Initiative. The art of ikat: a step-by-step guide. Published on the 3rd of February 2022. Accessed on the 29th of March, 2024. Available at: https://ethicalfashioninitiative.org/stories/the-art-of-ikat
Home of Fair Trade Organization. Discover The Power Of Fair Trade Enterprises With WFTO. Accessed on the 29th of March, 2024. Available at: https://wfto.com/
Independent Observer. Arturo Estrada Hernandez: Introducing Rebozos in WITS 2019. Published on the 30th of August 2019. Accessed on the 29th of March, 2024. Available at: https://observerid.com/arturo-estrada-hernandez-introducing-rebozos-in-wits-2019/
International Trade Centre. Ethical Fashion Initiative. Accessed on the 29th of March, 2024. Available at: https://intracen.org/our-work/projects/ethical-fashion-initiative
The Jakarta Post. Ikat artisans work together to save world heritage.  Published on the 19th of September 2019. Accessed on the 29th of March, 2024. Available at: https://www.thejakartapost.com/life/2019/09/19/ikat-artisans-work-together-to-save-world-heritage.htm
The Voice of Fashion. Into the Wild Wild East with Gunjan Jain.  Published on the 2nd of November 2023. Accessed on the 29th of March, 2024. Available at: https://www.thevoiceoffashion.com/fabric-of-india/zehn-decolonising-textiles-/into-the-wild-wild-east-with-gunjan-jain-5724